If you like Pinot Grigio but want something with a bit more backbone, this is the wine for you. Gavi is made from Cortese — a white grape grown in the hills of Piedmont in north-west Italy, better known for its big reds like Barolo and Barbaresco. But tucked into the cooler south-east corner, Cortese produces a crisp, dry white that's become Italy's go-to for seafood.

This is Gavi doing exactly what it does best: green apple and citrus, a whisper of almond and white blossom, and a clean, saline finish that keeps it fresh and food-friendly. Restrained and elegant rather than showy — a proper alternative to your everyday Italian white. Serve well-chilled with anything from the sea.