Burgundy greats already had their eyes trained on Marcus Goodfellow; it seems it's only a matter of time before their counterparts in Reims start doing the same - he's now launched his Champagne method lineup, a passion project a long time in the making. His Extra Brut is made from a blend of 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay, each vineyard source has a clear influence: nervy, citrus-driven acid and elastic tension from the windswept slopes of Whistling Ridge; the soft aromatics and weightless power from Durant, where the vines bath in the early morning sun; and the chalky, salt-laden minerality of Tsai. Dry but not austere, elegant but not fussy, this makes a compelling argument for best domestic Champagne method bubbles in the game.