Christophe Muret was once the biggest exporter of melons in France, apparently selling over a million a year to the UK alone. He lived in Moissac, famous for Chasselas eating grapes and once he decided enough was enough, he sold up and moved to the hills where Picpoul de Pinet is made and set up his own wine producing domaine, an enterprise that yields nowhere near the profits of melons, but far more life style, and so he continues on his path. His enthusiasm for his vines, which he cultivates on a minimal intervention principle (and is in effect organic), is infectious, but it is his love of Syrah that is absolutely fantastic.

When he talks of Syrah it is as if the volume is turned up to 11, and on visiting the vineyards it is easy to see how he can fuel this love. His vines are set upon a garrigue filled outcrop of red clay and limestone, exposed to wind which allows the cool winds to blow over and retain freshness wines.